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July RV Questions & Answers by Mark Polk

  • Saturday, June 30 2007 @ 06:47 am UTC
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*NOTE: At Mark's discretion, material might be edited to suit a wide audience. Due to the large volume of material and correspondence we receive, individual replies might not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of submitted material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of our RV Education 101 newsletter and on our site. Thank-you for your understanding.

Q. I need some help regarding a motorhome towing a dinghy. We have a 38'Cruise Air, diesel engine and a 2002 Jeep Liberty. My husband and I are trying to settle a difference in opinion. Basically, he doesn't want to tow a vehicle behind our motorhome because he says it's too expensive. We're traveling around the country and will probably do about 11,000 miles. I don't want to be without a vehicle so we can take side trips, go to the store or whatever. Please help so we can settle this. Thanks if for any wisdom you may share with us.

Mark Says: There is some cost involved initially. You will need to determine the type of vehicle you will be towing and whether it can be towed with all four wheels down or will you need to use a tow dolly. To tow with all four wheels down the vehicle may require some modifications to the drive train which can be a bit costly. Then there is the tow bar, the vehicle base plate and the supplemental braking system. Although there is this initial cost, in my opinion it is well worth it when you have a vehicle to use, especially during a long trip with the RV. As for fuel consumption you probably won't notice much difference towing or not towing.



Q. Mark, I read your article about "Brake Laws" on the web. I have a question about a pop-up trailer - my parents have a (relatively) small pop-up trailer (it has two full beds on each end and a small kitchenette in the middle). I would like to use my 2006 Subaru Forester to tow it. Are electric brakes required to *safely* tow this type of trailer with the Forester in California? I know that it's probably impossible to answer this question without knowing the pop-up camping trailer's weight, etc., so what is the rule for determining this?

Mark Says: Here is the correct link http://roadmasterinc.com/products/braking/map.html California law requires brakes if the trailer exceeds 1,500 pounds. You would need to try and have the pop up weighed. Does the pop up have brakes on it? If so you just need to get a brake controller and wiring for your vehicle.



Q. We park our RV at home, and have access to a 30-amp line; my inclination is to keep our MH plugged in continuously during nonuse with the fridge running and ready to go. Would we extend the life of the refrigerator by putting it in storage, that is, putting our selector switch to "STORAGE", thereby turning the unit off, removing all foods, and leaving the door open if we're not planning to use it for several months? Our fridge is a two-way: LPG or 120 VAC.

Mark Says: The only reason for leaving the refrigerator on would be if you use it for additional food storage when you are at home. If not, I would recommend turning it off and leaving the doors open when the RV is in storage. If you leave the RV plugged in all the time remember that the battery is being charged by the converter charger and you will have to keep an eye on the water levels in the battery too.



Q. Please end a brutal battle. How should I prepare my refrigerator for a seven month storage? Thank you.

Mark Says I don't want to get into the middle of a battle, but this is what I would do. If there is a build up in the freezer open the doors and thaw out and clean all of the water from the freezer compartment. Thoroughly clean the refrigerator compartments, prop the doors open and put some baking soda or charcoal (in an open container) in the compartments. It will be ready to go when you are. You should have the baffle and flue cleaned occasionally by an authorized repair center.



Q. I AM NEW TO THIS. I AM PLANNING ON TRAVELING WITH 2 SMALL DOGS. I NEED SOMETHING SMALL WITH AC SO WHEN I PARK THE CAR TO GO SOMEWHERE, MY DOGS ARE SAFE AND HAPPY. WHAT TYPE OF CAMPER DO I NEED? WHAT IS THE PRICE RANGE AND CAN I RENT ONE TO SEE HOW I LIKE IT?

Mark Says: It sounds like a class B motorhome would suit your needs. They are smaller than most motorhomes and come equipped with generators and all of the other amenities you would need. The price range depends on whether it is new or used. It could range anywhere from $15,000 to $75,000. Here is a link that shows the different types of RV's and talks about renting an RV before you buy: http://www.gorving.com/pubs/renting_an_rv.cfm



Q. Mark, we purchased RV education 101 DVD last year for our fall trip. It was very helpful to us (beginners). Could you please suggest an air compressor or specs in order to inflate our rv tires. We get conflicting messages from retailers and are now at a loss of what to do. We have a Class C that requires 80 PSI in the rear tires and 60 PSI in the front tires. Looking at a Maxus 04-gallon (direct drive) Pancake Air Compressor. Oil-free, 4.9 CFM @ 90 PSI, 1.8 HP, 120 Volt, 14 AMPS, SCFM @40/90 PSI:6.3/4.9, Max pressure: 125PSI. The vendor stated that it would take 20 minutes to fill one tire. This seems too long. Your suggestions would be helpful. Thank you,

Mark Says The rate that a compressor can deliver a volume of air is measured in cubic feet per minute (cfm). cfm varies with atmospheric pressure. It also varies with the temperature and humidity of the air. Technically, air compressor manufacturers calculate standard cubic feet per minute (scfm) as cfm at sea level with 68 degrees F air at 36% relative humidity. Scfm ratings are given at a specific pressure (for example)3.0 scfm at 90 psi. If you reduce pressure, scfm goes up, and vice versa. The model you are looking at is 4.9 cfm @90 psi The cfm and psi ratings are important because they will determine what a compressor is capable of doing. The most important thing to determine when choosing a compressor is to make sure it can supply the amount of air and the pressure that your tires need. In your case it should perform okay. Many applications in garages and shops (like air tools) don't require 125 max psi, so they have a regulator to adjust the air. It may be necessary to increase this setting to inflate the tires.



Q. I would like to know if you could tell me where the best place to start looking for a 1987 Fleetwood Southwind Class A Motorhome Owner's Manual would be? I bought a used motorhome to see if my wife would like it to travel in when we retire in a couple of years. The previous owner did not have one with it. Please help; even if someone has one that would make me a copy of it. I'd be more than happy to pay for it. Please advise. Also, I received my RV University Diploma and Stickers. It sure looks nice on the rig. Thanks so much.

Mark Says: Fleetwood has a lot of owner manuals available, but I'm not sure how far back they go. Here is a link to try. http://fleetwoodrv.com/contact/contact_mh.aspx

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/



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